London SS'12 - Acne and Burberry

Acne and Burberry are were both kind of confusing this time around. I love and hate them in equal measure because they were just... not quite right And not 'not quite right' in a kooky and interesting way but 'not quite right' because sometimes it just didn't work!

Acne's star cutouts were strange and I hated all the bagginess, and half the time the colour palette didn't mix well and that green is just gross. On the other hand, those shiny skirts were fantastic and the volume was great and the mustard was glorious and the layering was strangely good. It's also been getting a lot of press so I've been seeing it everywhere and I've been thinking about it quite a bit, and I still haven't made my mind up. So anyway, here is, in my opinion, the good and the bad.

The Good

The Bad

I at first laughed at those pom pom hats at Burberry, and then deigned them kind of cute but still hilarious, and these pom poms are basically a metaphor for the entire collection. Not that the rest of it is equally cute and hilarious, just that it's a real mix of good and bad.
I've found that looking at individual looks, I've really enjoyed them. The arts and crafts details are sweet and just that much different from all the futurism we've been seeing - although it's also very easy for the general 'ethnic' touches in detailing and prints to become cringeworthy, steering into cultural appropriation territory. (oh god, remember like, 5 years ago when everything was boho and all Africa everything?). The purples, ochres and pinks made up a palette much earthier than most other shows we've been seeing, and the prints had a lot of graphic impact instead of coming out a jumble (in contrast to a few shows I can think of...).
But then when you look at it as a whole, those colours become a bit boring, and it all seems a little soulless and homogenized - especially when considering the generic 'ethnic' details (was the influence Nigeria? Nepal?).
Once again, I am undecided. I'll just include those individual looks which work.

Ooooo I just noticed they both have those high volume, crinkly cotton skirts. Maybe Christopher Bailey and Jonny Johansson both decided to throw us a crazy-coloured, strange-volumed curve ball to see how the world would react.

(Note: just read the style.com review for Acne, turns out Johansson was inspired by Morocco! At least he didn't have ethnic cliches in his collection)

photos from vogue.com

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