London SS'12 - Erdem

Erdem's never ground breaking, in my opinion, but sometimes it's really nice to just have some beautiful, relatively simple and cohesive clothes to look at. And Erdem's so totally English that I have to include him in my favourite London shows.

Usually I find Erdem's collections to be a little too sweet, and then last season he did a 360 and I found all the moody blues and magentas way too heavy, too dense, as if he were trying to prove that he is more than just pretty. Well this season I think he achieved what he was aiming for last season, which is providing pretty with more guts and weight - and instead of having to go dark, he went absolutely light.

It seems a little too cliched to describe a Spring floral collections as fresh, but that's exactly what it was! Wonderfully fresh, a breath of fresh air. And that blue, that blue was a revelation. It was so crisp and paired with the orange-red lips the whole effect was like a splash of cold water on your face. And the fact that it ran throughout almost the entire show unified the collection and made it very satisfying to consider as a whole.

Prim and proper flowers always bring to mind London of course, and this season Erdem seemed particularly proud of his English-ness. Each and every dress was worthy of a morning tea or Anglican christening. And the little hats and gloves - so perfectly matched.

That is not to say that he clothes are stodgy or cloying. Sarah Mower articulately describes how he managed to provide garden party dresses filled with "cornflowers and delphiniums, primroses and marigolds" without everything becoming too precious or fussy: "he's a maximalist born with an affection for the pure and simple".
Yes, that certainly sums it all up perfectly.

(I just realised that this really parallels Christopher Kane's show - dark florals = bad, light florals = good) (also, Christopher Kane was my favourite show of London, but I've already blogged about that) (oh and also, spaghetti straps again!)

photos from vogue.com

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